‍The Calanques: A Perfect Spot for Deep Water Soloing

Climbing cliffs or diving into turquoise waters—why choose? Today, we’re taking you to the Calanques, home to some fantastic spots for deep water soloing (DWS) where you can enjoy the breathtaking Mediterranean coastline. But first, let’s explain a bit more about this unique form of climbing.

What Is Deep Water Soloing (Psicobloc)?

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Psicobloc is a type of climbing done solo above water, requiring no ropes or typical climbing protection. The water acts as a crash pad. This is why it’s also called “Deep Water Soloing” (DWS).

Most of the time, it takes place on coastal cliffs, but climbers can also scale rocks above rivers or lakes. This type of climbing gives a strong sense of freedom. Climbing without gear over the sea provides unique sensations.

Psicobloc is an extraordinary experience for anyone who enjoys climbing light and immersed in nature.

Advantages

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Also known as “aquatic solo climbing,” this style of climbing offers the perk of cooling off whenever you want. Some climbers might even purposely fall into the water just for fun! 🤣 After a sweaty climb, plunging into turquoise waters is a well-earned reward.

Another advantage is that you can attempt more challenging moves that you wouldn’t dare on a normal cliff without equipment. If you fall, the sea will catch you—of course, this is safer on cliffs that aren’t too high.

Precautions

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Psicobloc takes place in a maritime environment, so nothing should be taken lightly. Even in a dreamlike setting, there are important safety rules to follow. Here are five essential safety tips:

• Be a strong swimmer. You must be able to surface quickly after diving from several meters and easily reach the cliff or boat waiting for you.
• Ensure the water is deep enough. Scout and check your landing zone by swimming. If you’re a beginner, stick to well-known, frequently used spots. Start by jumping from small heights to see how you feel.
• Don’t climb alone. Even if you climb solo and don’t need someone to belay you, it’s important to have a partner in case you fall into the water. Your climbing partner will ensure you resurface safely. Plus, it’s more fun to share the experience!
• Plan in advance where you’ll climb back onto the cliff or reach the beach. Don’t wait until you’re in the water to figure it out!
• Check tide times (for the Atlantic) and sea conditions. You won’t be able to climb safely in rough waters.

Required Gear

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While there are precautions to take, the gear is minimal. For a day of psicobloc, you’ll need:

• Climbing shoes
• Chalk
• Sunscreen
• Beach towel 😉

Forget ropes, harnesses, carabiners, quickdraws, and other equipment you usually carry. Extra weight is dangerous when diving from heights, as you need to resurface easily.

You can also bring sunglasses and your best swimsuit. Keep in mind: saltwater will damage your climbing shoes, so don’t bring your newest or most expensive pair.

If you want advice on easing back into climbing, check out this article and enjoy Gautier Supper’s experience.

Climbing and Psicobloc in the Calanques

The Calanques: A Climber’s Paradise on the Mediterranean
The Calanques massif, located between Marseille and Cassis, is a national park and nature reserve composed of pebble and sandy beaches, small coves, turquoise waters, and, of course, cliffs. The scenery is stunning.

The cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean are considered prime climbing spots, attracting climbers worldwide. Famous alpinists like Gaston Rébuffat, Georges and Sonia Livanos, and Gary Hemming contributed to the massif’s fame. The “Gary Hemming Traverse” made DWS popular in this area, located near Cassis in the Calanque d’En Vau, just above the water.

Climbing is now regulated to protect the unique flora and fauna, so check the rules before you go.

You can explore these cliffs safely by purchasing Whympr’s Topos Pro. They include all the routes at Cap Canaille and a selection across the entire Calanques massif.

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Calanques near Marseille: 3 Psicobloc Spots

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The Marseille Calanques are well known for aquatic climbing. The Mediterranean setting is perfect: limestone rocks, warm water, and the sun to dry off after a dive.

Here are three psicobloc spots available on the app (and many more):

• Calanque de Port-Miou – Multiple sectors, most accessible only by water (e.g., sea kayak). Some areas are exposed (dangerous in case of a fall). Topo available on Whympr for €0.99.
• Le Moulon – Near Niolon, these cliffs are fairly technical.
• Calanque du Mauvais Pas – Around ten slab routes.

Using Whympr’s Topos Pro, you’ll find traverses over water and unique routes for diving into the Mediterranean.

Conclusion

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We hope this article inspires you to try climbing over the sea. You can switch from climber to swimmer in an instant and enjoy the beaches afterward. Beautiful limestone cliffs, sun, sea, and beaches—what more could you ask for? We highly encourage you to experience psicobloc in this exceptional natural environment, the Calanques massif.

Don’t forget to share your outings with the community on the app!

Download the Whympr app for free now on the App Store and Google Play. ⛰️

Pssst… the Whympr team also shares tips on TikTok: